Mount Washington, New Hampshire
There is no doubt, Mount Washington with its amazing 360º views is one of the most beautiful summits in the Northeast and also one of the most unpredictable. Its location in the White Mountains as well as its New Hampshire location are the reason. The Whites are formed like a ‘V’ where all winds are escorted to the prominent peak. This and the flow of the jet stream, which often crosses the eastern side of the US in New England, mean the chances for wicked weather are higher here than other places. Even with the weather unpredictability, if researched, timed right and with the right gear, an ascent here can be just as pleasurable as any other peak.
I did Washington as a part of my New England Six-Pack of Peaks Challenge. All of the peaks in this challenge are great if not phenomenal, but Washington’s numerous and arduous trails are enticing me to come back again and see more of its rocky splendor. For for me its the work/reward. The harder and more elusive something is, to attain it makes that feeling of accomplishment that much better. Washington, with its unpredictable weather, being the highest peak in the Northeast and with its trails that tend to take the shortest distance route rather than smoothest, is at the top of the list, (only behind Katahdin). Although, if I were to take the Huntington Ravine Trail up next time, I might change my mind!
The Tuckerman Ravine and Lion Head Trails are just two of the many that will lead you to a Mount Washington summit. And, if you are spending a lot of time in the area or if you want to make a weekend of it, there are plenty of multi-day hikes to choose from that will hit Mount Washington in addition to a few other peaks. All Trails and the Hiking Project have tons of trail info that can help you find your path, whether you want something shorter, longer or harder than the two I used.
Course: From the Pinkham Notch Trailhead, Tuckerman Ravine to Lion Head to Tuckerman Ravine to Summit, then return down Tuckerman Ravine to the Pinkham Notch.
Start Date and Time: 9/6/19 (Friday) at 6:26 AM
Weather: 41 degrees F, mostly sunny at the trailhead, mostly cloudy at the summit which was in the 40’s with a light breeze.
Total Distance and Time: 8.58 for 4 hours, 27 min., (this was with both picked up hiking and running were I was able to).
Elevation gain: 4170 ft (Garmin 4556 ft).
Clothing: Long sleeve shirt, buff, trucker hat, compression sleeves (legs), capri leggings, wool performance low cut socks.
Food and Gear: I wore an Ultimate Direction Vesta 2.0 with 1.5 L bladder and 750 ml soft flask filled with an electrolyte drink. I brought two waffles and two gels for food. Just in case, wipes and a carry out bag, compass, maps of trails, gloves, beanie, jacket, phone, mace, multi-tool and matches. I wore Brooks Cascadia 13. I also had my Garmin Forerunner 35.
Additional Information: It is worth getting to the Pinkham Notch parking lot either at or before sunrise and summiting early in the day to avoid crowds. Parking wasn’t a problem, but I would imagine on a busy weekend it might be. I started my trek about a half hour after the sun rose and the lighting was spectacular, although I bet to see the sunrise would be even better. With the early start, I only saw less than a dozen people at the top.
There are both water and bathrooms at Pinkham Notch and the summit. There is also a souvenir shop where you can get trinkets and food, so I hear (I didn’t stop to check it out).
Souvenir shop at the top of Mount Washington Water and one of the best seating areas ever!
I took Lion Head up and Tuckerman down. I loved my experience, but if I were to do it again might do the reverse or take another path down because it was slick a few places on Tuckerman. I’d rather have the slippery spots on the way up than on the way down.
Lastly, the summit is accessible by car and cog railway. If you think you are only able to do an ascent you can have someone meet you at the top, but you can’t be sure that there will be a spot for you on the railway to bring you back down. In addition, the railway location is one of several trailheads that lead up to Mount Washington, so you may be in a pickle if that’s not where you started!
Tuckerman Ravine trail soon after leaving the parking lot. Tuckerman Ravine trail prior to Lion Head. Lots of rocks!
The Hike: I started at Pinkham Notch. Luckily I was able to make a quick pitstop at the squeaky clean bathrooms before I headed out. You start with a very mild incline on a dirt, root and rock trail, which within the first mile becomes more rocks than anything else. My neighbor had shared with me that she remembered the trail being all rocks and boy was she right! Besides the beginning of the hike, going all the way up to the Alpine Garden Trail crossing, there are just a few stretches here and there where there is more dirt than rock. They aren’t loose rocks, so hopping is good to go- and quite fun! That said, unless you ankles are super strong and agile, stable and supportive boots are highly recommended.
Tuckerman crosses the water two times on two pretty incredible foot bridges before meeting the Lion Head Trail on the right. If you reach a body of water or and a building with a deck, you have gone too far. Soon after making a right on Lion Head, there is a caretaker cabin on the left.
Ladder early on the lion Head trail Lion Head trail. My face is only there to offer reference for dimension and depth:-)
Lion Head is less traveled and narrow in comparison to Tuckerman (at least below of the tree line). It meanders up and around rocks and trees. There are plenty of places where hands are required to get up the trail, although I wouldn’t describe it as a scramble- maybe baby bouldering?? It has great vertical climb like many other NE trails, but one other thing I enjoyed was how it snakes back and forth on the slope around some of the larger boulders, like a hiking dance. There were also berries and lots of wild flowers.
Lion Head trail Lion Head trail
After passing through the tree line and tackling some serious incline, just before meeting up with he Alpine Garden Trail there is a bit of a plateau with extensive view of Tuckerman Ravine and beyond. Turning to the right you can see how much more awaits you until you reach the peak of Mount Washington. It always amazes me that you can look at a picture of these mountains, or even be there in person, and because of the way the landscape is, something might look like it is only 100 meters away, but really it’s 400. Once you notice the cairns in the picture above, it’s easier to understand the scope of the mountain and how the terrain can play tricks on you, i.e. the weather turns bad and you think you only have to go so far to get shelter.
After crossing the Alpine Garden Trail and continuing to the top it is rock and boulder hopping/bounding for almost the whole rest of the way. It starts to seem as if Washington is just a giant pile of rocks! There are blazes and cairns all around, but figuring the best route from one marker to the next wasn’t always as clear. Keeping my eye out for rocks that had scrapes on them, as if they had been worn down by crampons, seemed to keep me on a solid path.
It is very surreal when you get to the top. You have been huffing and puffing, lunging and jumping, grabbing and pulling yourself over rocks and boulders. You may only see a handful of people on the way. Then you get to the parking lot.
I have to admit, it takes a little bit of the joy of the summit away (but just a little bit). You cross the road and head up a series of wooden stairs. The knick-knack shop is on your left, the Tip Top house at the tip top up and to the left and then summit sign is up and straight ahead. Off to the right is the Visitor Center, bathrooms, water and where the Cog Railway drops passengers off.
The Tip-Top House at the top of Mount Washington Channeling the Fonz for my summit pic
I didn’t want to spend too much time at the top, but I also wanted to take it in for a bit. There were only ten others on the summit at that time. It was calm and the summit itself was free of clouds although the sky was mostly cloudy. If I had more time, I would have taken a seat in one of the Adirondack chairs near the Visitor Center.
I grabbed one of my Cliff Bars, and started eating as I went down the wooden stairs towards the Tuckerman Ravine Trail. I found that along Tuckerman the descent was taking just as long as the ascent due to the boulders, rocks and slick surfaces. Flat, dry surfaces to bound from were few and far between. Although, there was a gentleman who passed me that looked like a gazelle with mountain goat instincts, gracefully and quickly passing from one rock to the next. Skills I need to work on or at least dream about:-)
Slick spot on the Tuckerman Ravine trail Looking up the wall of Tuckerman Ravine Looking up the wall of Tuckerman Ravine
One of the coolest things about the Tuckerman Ravine Trail is that once you get to edge of the ravine, it looks like there isn’t a way down. But after a quick scan, you can see the blazes and cairns that guide the way. I did find it a little slick in some spots and did a less than graceful butt glide to make it down a few rock faces. But, before I knew it I was looking up at the ravine from the Hermit Shelter area. It was easy going from there on out. It is still a mostly rock trail with the need for proper foot placement, but you can at least breath easy.
Berries and flowers on the Tuckerman Ravine trail Tuckerman Ravine trail
Mount Washington is gorgeous and worth the work, even if you have to share the summit with those who hitched a ride. I had taken Lion Head and Tuckerman, but there are plenty of others. Some are shorter, some are much longer, some are harder. But, if you hike all the way to the summit it doesn’t matter which way you took. It will be hard, it will be rewarding, and you’ll totally be glad you did it.